ED KELLER
ROCKCLIMBER/BOULDERER
In 2023, I continue to climb at a 5.10 trad, 5.12 sport, V4 level.
I have been rehabilitating a shoulder injury since mid 2017.
ASCENTS
2000s
Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10b, Red Rocks, 5 pitches
2016
[as well as a few sport ~5.12b in 2016]
Jackson Pollack, Illustrious Buddha, Funny Killer [V8 blocs]
2009 – 2012
The Prow, 5.11+ 5 pitches [fall on crux roof]
2011
Fastest Gun, 5.10b 4 pitches; Earthly Night, 5.11b 3 pitches
2011
Survival, 5.13a TR [laps]
2009
Energizer, 5.13a redpoint of sport route
2009
Imaginator, 5.11+, 3 pitches
2007
[as well as various sport leads up to ~5.12c in 2007]
ASCENTS / COMPETITIONS / LICENSING
1980s – 1990s
NY State licensed professional climbing guide
1989 – 1994
U.S. World cup climbing team, ranked 8th in USA
1990
SELECTED ONE-PITCH ASCENTS
1985 – 1991
Journey to Ixtlan [5.12a trad onsight], Dreamin’ [5.12a onsight]
Pig Pen [5.12b onsight], Chain Reaction [5.12c RP 3rd go],
Public Enemy [5.12d RP], The Surfer [5.12d RP first ascent]
Acid Crack [5.12d TR], Love Muscle [5.12d TR], Ecstas [5.13a RP],
Survival [5.13a TR], Clairvoyance [5.13b TR]
RuinTime [5.13c TR first ascent], Colors [5.13d TR second ascent]
uncompleted project: Terminator, 5.14a: worked for ~2 years, fell on final move ten+ times.
SELECTED MULTI-PITCH ASCENTS
1982 – 1991
Naked Edge [III, 5.11b, age 17; multiple repeats in the 80s; led entire route]
Chouinard Herbert [V 5.11c, age 18, led crux pitches]
Freeblast[El Capitan] [IV, 5.11b, age 19]
Astroman [V, 5.11+, led all pitches; one fall on 11+ pitch]
Rostrum [IV, 5.12b, led all pitches; onsighted to last pitch, falling on 12b;
climbed route 3 times over 2 years attempting 12b pitch]
Middle Cathedral North Buttress [V, 5.10]
SOLO ASCENTS
1980s
onsight free solos up to 5.10a – Little Sheeba, Peruvian Flake
onsight rope solo Book of Solemnity, 5.10a, 1984
solos after rehearsal
Lingering Lie 5.10d Criss 5.11a Squiggles Direct 5.10b Criss Cross 5.10a